Silvestrovská Sperlonga 2009
Aneb vhodný útěk před mrazem a sněhem na sluníčko, do vln a luxusní jeskyně...
Koncem roku nám bylo jasné, že po Vánocích nehodláme rozhodně sedět doma a jelikož jsem se konečně malinko začal vracet do sportu lezeckého, mé nadšení pro návštěvu vápencových skal mezi Římem a Neapolí bylo nezměrné. Odjeli jsme ze Smíchova hnedle 25.12. před půlnocí a po 16ti hodinách úmorného vodění naší modré káry od zatáčky k zatáčce jsme opravdu stanuli na pláži ve Sperlonze a mávali do zdejší webkamery rodinám našim.
Cesta do Sperlongy
Pojmu to malinko cestopisně. Vězte tedy, že Brennerská dálnice stojí stále 8€ za průjezd. Italské dálnice Vás na této trase vyjdou cca na 6€/100km, platí se na mýtných branách. Pokud se vydáte dále na jih od Neapole, tak od Salerna na Sicílii jsou již zdarma. Jezdit po místních silnicích je pro středoevropana zvyklého se zuby nechty držet dopravních předpisů řekněme noční můra. Je třeba zapomenout na přednosti, semafory, jednosměrky a být stále ve střehu. Osobně mi tento způsob jízdy celkem vyhovoval, ostatní se ale za volant zrovna nehrnuli. Místní mají prostě lehčí ťukec v krvi.
pohled na pláž Spiaggia St. Agostino z vrchního sektoru Sperlonga (pohled směr jih)
Jak pod skalami a jak na ně
Většina lezeckých sektorů se nachází mezi Sperlongou a Gaetou, zde naleznete i velmi slušné vícedélkové lezení. Do srdce skal se přiblížíte nejlépe po SS213, které nikdo neřekne jinak než Via Flacca. Je to zdejší pobřežní tepna. Pojedete li směrem od Sperlongy na Gaetu, tak za posledním tunelem (jediný má asi stometrovou galerii) jste prakticky na místě. Vpravo je moře, vlevo se tyčí sektory Sperlonga. Zbývá přejet most a po cca 1 km se ocitnete na pláži Spiaggia St. Agostino. Hned vlevo od silnice je kemp s obchodem "Il Guido", kde můžete zajet za vrata a zakempovat. Případně se v blízkém okolí ve spleti mini uliček schovává slušná paleta apartmánů v cenách od 10 do 20€, podle toho jak jste schopní smlouvat. V apartmánech se přes zimu většinou netopí, leda snad za příplatek. Chytnete li střídavě slunné a deštivé počasí (teploty mezi 12-16°C ve stínu) jako my, bude v nich poměrně vlhko, větrno a vlezlo, ale za to vybavená kuchyně s plynovým sporákem, na terase citróny, ze střechy výhled na moře a třeba i vlastní kočka na mazlení. Tohle vše nás potkalo v blízké "Casa di ... :-))" Toto místo je ideálním východiskem pro okolní sektory Sperlonga, Monte Moneta a El Pueblo. Ty jsme ovšem shledali ne příliš vyhovující našim představám, tím nechci říci, že nestojí za návštěvu. Zvláště centrální sektor Monte Monety, na kterou jsme koukali z ložnice, za návštěvu jistě stojí. Najdete zde dost sportovních 7céček, ale i mnohem lehčích impozatních cest. Sváteční lezci ocení sektory Sperlonga a El Pueblo, kde je množství položených až kolmých cest nižší obtížnosti. Zásadní při návštěvě Sperlongy je co nejdříve objevit nudistickou pláž Spiaggia dell' Arenauta, která se nachází asi 2 km jižně po Via Flacca od Guida. Vyjedete na kopeček a po chvilce se vpravo začnou míhat parkovišťátka. Zastavte na tom, kde je vedle popelnic nejvíce polských aut, nebo až na tom o 100 m dál a vyhledejte příkré schodiště mezi nimi vedoucí dolů na pláž. Dole na pláži projdete malým zázemím (sprcha, wc, voda) a vlevo vystoupáte přes velkou dunu do ukryté jeskyně Grotta dell´Arenauta.
pláž Spiaggia dell' Arenauta, pohled z velké duny před Grotta dell' Arenauta směr jih
Grotta dell' Arenauta
Chvíli budete asi celkem oslněni jednak velikostí jeskyně a hlavně čilým ruchem, který zde zřejmě neustává. Zvláště za deště je zde fakt našlapáno. Nejlehčí cesty jsou od tuším 6b a není jich mnoho. Pak je zde celkem dost cest okolo 6c a 7a. Pár vypečených 7b. Když se pustíte do velkého všudypřítomného stropu, klasa se neochotně šplhá na 8a a těžší. O 8a budete muset ale mrtě zabojovat. Hodně cest má společný lehčí nástup a tak může lehko vzniknout slovní potyčka s ostatními lezuchtivci, nesmíte se nechat odbít. Slabší povahy mohou zajít na skály přímo na pláži vpravo od schodiště, kde jste na sluníčku a není zde nával, ale cesty nejsou zdaleka tak pěkné. Pro mnohé další info a průvodce jeskyní mrkněte třeba na zlobastream.cz. 26tého si zde dala dostaveníčko slušná skupinka českých lezců, čítající kolem 15 kusů. Nicméně na polskou komunitu kempující přímo v jeskyni a na duně pod ní jsme zdaleka neměli. V několika dalších dnech bylo provedeno několik frontálních útoků na místní megapřevislá 8áčka a připraveným se skutečně zadařilo (Edita, Ondra, Ála, Mrožík), dalším to uniklo jen o vlásek (Monika, Pistolé). No a pak tu byl Junglí z díry, který se hned první dny zasekal v nějaké volovině kterou né a né pochopit (jmenovalo se to nějak jako Dójit!). Až ke konci zájezdu našel linii, co mu konečně sedla a 8a také pokořil.
Pohled na severní polovinu jeskyně Grotta del' Arenauta
Restday
V okolí stojí za návštěvu jistě historická Sperlonga se svými křivolakými uličkami na skalním útesu a přístavní město Gaeta, kde kousek od historického centra s bankomaty, najdete i levné supermarkety. Dále není od věci restday využít na návštěvu cca 100 km vzdáleného Říma či Neapole nebo třeba jediné činné sopky na Evropském kontinentu Vesuvu (1279 m n.m.). Poslední variantu jsme zvolili my. Asi 400 m pod vrchol Vesuvu vyjedete pohodlně serpentýnami autem až na bezplatné parkoviště (jezdí sem i linkový autobus z Neapole). Pozor zde si musíte asi koupit vstupenku na vrchol a místní šerpové vyhazují zájemce o výstup vždy cca hodinu a půl před setměním, pak je dobré kašlat na ně a vyhledat postranní díry v plotě a cestičky vedoucí na vrchol od zadu. To se nám totiž přesně stalo. Cestu jsem nakonec našel jen jako úderník já sám a to travezem po vrstevnicové silnici ze severní do východní stěny sopouchu a jí po turistické pěšině až k okraji kráteru. Cestou na mě dohlíželo celkem mnoho kamer, tak jsem si připadal bezpečněji, samozřejmě jsem je obešel obloukem, pokuta by asi byla vostrá. Pohled do kouřícího kráteru mi ale všechnu námahu zcela vynahradil. Případně také nezapomeňte navštívit blízké Pompei, Ercolano a podobné zajímavosti.
Sektory Sperlonga (pohled z mostu před tunelem s galerií - Via Flacca)
Silvestr a gastronomie
Česká delegace vlezla do Nového roku během komorní párty v "Casa di ... :-))", která se nesla ve znamení požívání laskomin, co místní fertilní pastviny, kamenité vinice a zelené olivové háje nabízí, a následném zívání a pospávání. Největším zážitkem, kromě různých voňavých sýrů byla pro mě mozzarella di bufala (tedy přímo od rohaté krávy water buffalo) s místním kořením a olivovým olejem. Většina sektu bohužel skončila nějakým nedopatřením jistého pána na oděvech a stropě, o to příjemnější však byla popůlnoční koupel ve vlnách 16ti stupňového středozemáku. Párty ve vedlejší haciendě rušila náš poklidný popůlnoční spánek až do časného rána. Italové to umí fakt rozjet, ale musím také poznamenat, že se někteří chovali jako hulváti, nikoliv jako evropané, když nebyli schopni odpovědět ani na přání šťastného Nového roku.
Závěr
Pokud do Sperlongy, tak do Grotta dell´Arenauta nebo snad na Monte Monetu. Pokud do Grotty, tak to bez předchozího mega tréninku ve stropě nemá vůbec smysl. Nemáte li slušnou stropní výkonnost, je lepší vydat se objíždět mnohé okolní pamětihodnosti, čímž podpoříte krevní oběh též, rozšíříte si obzory a celkově si z tripu odvezete více než jeskyní tmu v hlavě. Ostatní okolní šlemy vám asi moc slunce v duši nepřinesou.
Autor: Běhy Vydáno: 17.1.2010 19:55 Přečteno: 493891x |
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