Lezli jsme s reprezentantem!
a ne jen tak s ledajakým...
Předem musím říci, že toto není pouhý klep. Málem jsme se posr... strachem i smíchy. Třetí den v Ospu, no člověku to třeba může trochu lízt na mozek, ale tohle bylo fakt zlý. Po probuzení v jeskyni jsme vyrazili do skal. Zvolili jsme pro změnu parkovaní u kempu, což nás ale od placení neosvobodilo. Vyplázli jsme 2€, na který to Zajíc usmlouval, jako že tam budeme stát jen půl dne. Jsou tam teď ty zemědělci nějaký dost na prachy.
Jiná věc. Využili jsme naše vetchá těla k výstupu krkolomnou pěšinou do části skal nad Ospem zvané Babna. Byla to síla, ale dali jsme to. Vybíráme v papírech z lezce cestu a po chvíli nastupuji s Kubem na příjemnou dvoudélku jménem Demolition party 7a+. První délka za 6c, což mi po dvou dnech nepřetržitého lezení přijde poněkud těžké. Bolí mě celý člověk, pomalu bych se na to nejradši vykašlal. V posledním "bouldru", na který mi síly nezbyly, srabácky sedám dva metry pod štandem. Dobojováno. Zas tak hustý to nebylo. Pomalu dobírám Kuba. Ten hoch má se stavem své schránky stejné problémy. Mezitím se na zemi oblíkl Lachtan a vybral linii vlevo od té naší. Koukám, a to jelito své 7b poněkud šidí a nalézá prakticky za Kubem. Kupodivu cvaká i stejné nýty jako my. Bohužel se silně přecenil a první těžkou pasáž odlézá doprava. Cvaká další nýty v naší cestě a váhá. Tudíž je stále asi metr pod Kubem, který každou chvíli padá, visí, pokusuje. Reprezentant má sil ještě dost a poctivě čeká v pozici lezecké na Kubem uvolňovaná presa. Nastalá situace nás všechny vítečně baví, akorát Lachtan má hubu plnou řečí, co se s tím Kub sere a dokonce prý jsme v blbé cestě, protože vlevo to nemůže být 7b. „Vždyť je to těžký! Měli jste jít ještě víc vpravo!" Ukazuje na linii béháček vytyčujících pod námi cestu tak za 7a+! To značí jediné, Lachtan je fakt v úzkých. Mele blbosti. Vzniklá situace by se instruktorům určitě nelíbila, ale jinak to nejde. Lachtan to vlevo nedává a je nucen lízt za námi. Již včera jsme si všimli, že cvaknout správně lano do presa asi nikdy nepobral a dává to tam, jak to přijde. Jeho táta, co mockrát přešel hory, by mu dal. Naše poznámky o možném vycvaknutí presky a statistikách Pita Schuberta jsou mu celkem ukradené. Posílá nás všechny nejednou do patřičných mezí a sedá preso pod Kubem, jelikož takhle dlouho by tam nevydržel za ruce ani Mráza. Z pokročilé debaty všichni doslova chčijeme smíchy. Nic se naštěstí nestalo Kub i Lachtan dolezli a všichni tři sedíme ve štandu. Zajda nepoleze, jelikož sotva sedí na prdeli. Přes noc ho chytla noha, jak s ní včera hákoval v Rock 'n' rollu v Mišja Peči. Za Lachtanem tak zůstává cesta nacvakaná a není kdo by jí sebral. Kub má dost a do další délky, která mimochodem vypadá šíleně těžce a teče v ní dokonce voda, se mu nechce a slaňuje na zem. Já nic nenamítám a pouštím Lachtana bojovat. Jak tak koukám, těžké to skutečně je, jelikož Lachtan glosuje pomalu každý druhý krok a ze čtyř pres, cvakl tři obráceně. Snažím se výchovně působit, Lachtan mi však odvětí: „Jestli to dáš na druhým v kuse, koupím ti dole čokoládu." Zajda zdola gestikuluje, že je to s tím klukem v řiti, smějeme se všemu, a že jde radši už zpět do údolí k autu. Situace zdá se být bezvýchodná a Lachtan začíná lízt v mírném převise A0 (šlape do smyček ve dvou nýtech). Jelikož tuto techniku z domácího Prachova dobře zná, dobývá nakonec vrcholový řetěz. Sanice mě už příliš bolí, snažím se nesmát. Lachtan mě hbitě dobírá. Lezení je levitační, šťavnaté tedy vážně pěkné. Doslova si libuji. Po sedmi metrech však chyty zjemní a o slušných nohách se v mírně převislé plotně, pokryté náteky vápeného sintru, mluvit rozhodně nedá. Rychle vytékám a sedám. V posledních třech metrech vzlínám velmi těžce a poslední krok je tedy opravdu lahůdka pro otrlé. Pod převis slaňujeme poněkud opatrně, ale k řetězu pod námi se houpáním na laně dostal lze. Sestup zakončuji spouštěním Lachtana, který musí ještě vybrat presa z první délky. V apartním průvodci Italů zjišťujeme, že druhou délku se nám nepovedlo trefit, jak jsme si představovali. Dali jsme si variantu Šoková terapie píšou za 7a+/b. Vrtíme hlavami a debatujíce o nejtěžším 7a+/b v životě, mizíme v údolí. Nakonec tedy vše dobré. Tento pekelně dlouhý a nudný článek píši hlavně kvůli Lachtanovi. Doufám, že mu táta protřelý horal a skalák domluví a vysvětlí, jak se cvaká lano do presky. Násilí snad nebude nutné. Zdravím Jičín. Pro echo napsal Běhy.
Autor: Běhy Vydáno: 25.11.2006 16:40 Přečteno: 416553x |
Komentáře
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