KOUZLO POLSKÝCH TATER
Na sklonku prázdnin naše parta Ještěrek opět vyrazila do Tater, tentokrát k našim polským sousedům, neboť nás zlákala mnoha zdroji opěvovaná i obávaná štreka Orla Perc', která byla naším hlavním cílem.
Jako obvykle jsme využily k transportu lehátkové kupé do Popradu a odtud ranním busem do Lysé Pol'any, ze které jsme musely vynést své "batůžky" notně obtěžkané vší potřebnou výbavou na schronisko Murowaniec. Cesta byla malebná. Vedla přes pastviny kolem salaše, kde jsme se mohly osvěžit ovčím mlékem, přes první skalnaté vršky a potůčky. Na Murowanieci byl nával nejen polských turistů a my jsme s údivem zjišťovaly jak si u polských sousedů nedokážeme přečíst ani jídelní lístek J - připravilo nám to spoustu zajímavých okamžiků, připadaly jsme si spíše jak u tatarů.
Brzy ráno, ale opravdu brzy, protože skoro celá ohromná chata ještě spala, jsme s odlehčenými batohy vyšly vstříc dobrodružství jménem Orlí stezka. Nejodvážněji vedená horská túra v celých Tatrách má blízko k zajištěným cestám známých z Alp a patří k nejobtížnějším turistickým podnikům. Dělí se na 5 úseků, po každém z nich je možné ze stezky sejít a jen málokdo ji přejde na jeden zátah ať už kvůli fyzičce, morálu či počasí. My jsme se rozhodly, že to dáme! Pravda je, že se nám spoustu turistů podivovalo, kam jsme se to vydaly. Samotná stezka čítá 7 hodin čistého času, ovšem přístup k nástupu a sestup zabere kolem dalších 5 hodin. Celá trasa: Murowaniec 1500 m.n.m. - Orla Perc' : sedlo Zawrat 2158 m.n.m. - Mały Kozi Wierch 2228 m.n.m. - Kozi Wierch 2291 m.n.m. - Przełączka nad Buczynową Dolinką - Zadni Granat 2240 m.n.m. - Skrajny Granat 2225 m.n.m. - Wiełka Buczynowa Turnia 2184 m.n.m. - Mała Buczynowa Turnia 2172 m.n.m. - Krzyźne 2112 m.n.m. - Murowaniec
1. úsek: Zawrat → Kozia Przełęcz. První úsek cesty Orla Perć je až na první část ze Zawratu na Mały Kozi Wierch velmi těžký. A až sestupem z vrcholu do sedla Zmarzła Przełączka Wyżnia začíná pravá Orla Perć. Pokud již tady zjistíte, že tohle není vaše parketa, je vhodné se otočit již na Malém Kozím Vrchu a vůbec nesestupovat do Kozího sedla, protože i další sestup ze sedla je velice náročný, a to do obou dolin. Odtud už vede cesta s velkou expozicí do strmého žlabu. Samé ostré hřebeny, hladké plotny, sem tam žebřík či lávka, kramle a řetězy, které však v některých místech, kde by je člověk očekával, chyběly. V úzkém Kozím sedle je krátká možnost se pevně postavit.
2. úsek: Kozia Przełęcz → Kozi Wierch. Po řetězech se dostáváme do severní stěny strmých věží Kozie Czuby 2263m.n.m. Pod značenou trasou stále vidíme velkou hloubku Kozí dolinky. Sestupujeme do sedla Kozia Przełęcz Wyżnia, to je asi nejtěžším úsekem, horší už to nebude, ale exponované úseky podobné žebříku do sedla se tu několikrát opakují. Odtud na vrchol nejvyššího bodu trasy Kozi Wierch, který je nejvyšším vnitrozemským bodem Polska.
3. úsek: Kozi Wierch → Przełączka nad Buczynową Dolinką. Na místní poměry, pokud s člověkem nebezpečně nezacloumal poryv větru, celkem pohodový úsek trasy po nízko položených jižních a jihovýchodních svazích rozložitého vrcholového hřebenu na Buczynowou Strażnicu. Odsud prudký a kluzký sestup do sedla Przełączka nad Buczynową Dolinką, kde se zase mění charakter cesty.
4. úsek: Przełączka nad Buczynową Dolinką → Skrajny Granat. Ve stěnách Czarne Ściany se traverzuje pod okrajem hřebene, cesta je dobře jištěná a obtížnost nižší, ale postupně se dostavuje únava, čeká nás však dokončit tuto etapu sestupem ze Zadního Granátu a následný výstup na Pośredni Granat 2234 m.n.m., který patří opět mezi ty nejobtížnější na celé trase díky velké expozici. Končíme na vrcholku Skrajny Granat 2225 m.n.m. Zdoláváme i překážku tzv. szczeliny, což je asi 80 cm široký překrok s převýšením přes ostrý žlab.
5. úsek: Skrajny Granat → Krzyżne. Poslední úsek Orlí stezky na Krzyżne nemá únikové cesty, připomíná prostředím Západní Tatry, ale jeho obtížnost se určitě vyrovná předešlým úsekům. Ve druhé části cesty číhá rizikový nejištěný úsek v drolivé suti. Jdeme přes Wiełkou i Małou Buczynowou Turniu těžkými plotnami padajících do Doliny Pańszczycy do sedla Krzyżne 2112 m.n.m., kde Orla Perc´ končí. Otevíráme své placatice a zapíjíme náš výkon hltem šňapsu a jsme na sebe hrdé s konstatováním, že Poláci jsou šílení, když vymysleli takový přechod štítů. Cesta na boudu je však ještě dlouhá 2.5h L. Poté se zaslouženě občerstvujeme rezavým mokem a sklízíme obdiv a gratulace místních.
Je další den a my opouštíme s plnou polní schronisko Murowaniec. Chceme přejít do vedlejšího údolí přes Liliowe sedlo a vrchol Swinica do sedla Zawrat, ze kterého jsme nastupovaly na Orla Perc´. Trochu nás děsí vítr, který s příbývající výškou značně sílí a honí nás z jednoho strmého okraje stezky na druhý. Máme co dělat, abychom se na ní s těžkými batohy udržely, dokonce přestáváme mluvit, což se nám stává zřídka. Jsme po zkušenostech z předešlého dne velmi obezřetné a velmi se nám ulevuje, když začneme sestupovat do snad nejkrásnějšího údolí Tater vůbec - Doliny Pieciu Stawow Polskich. Pěti po sobě následujících ples - scenérie jako z filmu. Odsud musíme ještě jednou nastoupat přes Swistowou Czubu, odkud bohužel sledujeme zásah vrtulníku horské služby v místech, kde jsme se den před tím nacházely, na schronisko k Morskiemu Oku. Uvědomujeme si jaké jsme měly štěstí i proto, že počasí se opravdu zhoršilo a následující den jsme musely přehodnotit.
Po noclehu na Morskiem Oku, kdy jsme se probudily do deště a mlhy, jsme upustily od časově náročnějšího přechodu přes Rysy a vydaly se na „procházku" kolem Morskieho Oka a Czarnyeho stawu pod Rysami. Povalující se mlha koupala vršky hor a sem tam probleskující paprsek slunce vytvářel téměř intimní atmosféru toho rána. Poté jsme nabaženy přírodními výjevy popadly batohy a namířily si to domů. Kolem Mickiewiczeho vodopádů do Lysé Pol´any a busem do Popradu, kde jsme chutně povečeřely v restauraci s příznačným názvem OROL a pak na kutě do kupé.
Byly jsme v Tatrách potřetí, všechny výpravy měly své kouzlo, ale polské byly bezkonkurenčně nejhezčí. Můžeme je Polákům závidět. Vřele doporučuji.
S pozdravem Ještěrka Jitka
Autor: Ještěrka.Jitka Vydáno: 15.2.2012 8:44 Přečteno: 622095x Hodnocení: 2 (hodnoceno 6x) |
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